“A good Chianti is done in the vineyard, the important thing is not to “spoil” it in the cellar”. That’s what I am told at Mannucci-Droandi’s. Their is an organic and versatile wine, that relays the story of an ongoing project, a newborn cooperative that will help people to recover through their work producing wine.
Organic Chianti is also the one produced by the Traiana, Salaceta and Campo di Monte farms, three friends who make wine in Valdarno. Ettore Ciancico speaks passionately of their Chianti, produced in a particularly mineral territory (before it was a lake) and that is not vinified in wood, but in steel and that stands a bit in the middle, between a table a wine-bar conviviality.
Still in the bio and even vegan sector, you find the Volpaio farm in Vinci: their work begins in the vineyard and it continues in the winery. Their Chianti is made with native and centenarians grapes, harvested at a proper maturity: that is the most important part of the job, then it’s the wine that continues its evolution.
A special attention to the environment is essential, tells me Elena de Le Fonti di San Giorgio in Montespertoli: bees, animals, the lake near their vineyard, the truffles that grow nearby, everything contributes to the aroma of the wine !
Moving to San Miniato I meet the vinery of Pietro Beconcini and the Campigiana farm. “Chianti is Chianti” says the first, and “do not transform Chianti in something that is not” add the seconds. Immediacy and tradition are, in short, their fundamentals: you can soften the Chianti, but respecting its aromatic spectrum, possibly “working Sangiovese to the fruit,” says Mr. Beconcini.
The need to open the Chianti is expressed also by the Fattoria di Fiano, where the fianesco territory makes the wine a little austere, hard, rustic. It’s an action you take during the winemaking process, even if everything starts from the harvest and with an understanding of the potential evolution of that grape.
A different view is exposed by Paolo Martinelli of La Gigliola Estate; he produces wine – he is a winemaker – on the gentles hills of the world. For them a good Chianti is not only linked to the territory but also, if we can say so, by the quality of the time. Their wine changes every year, depending on what and how the vineyard produces. The vinification follows and exalts what the soil produces: that’s quite bio too, isn’t it?