Sangiovese and its court
Sangiovese, the soul of Chianti, is a native Italian red grape variety.
It is one of the most widespread (occupying 11% of the national wine-growing area) and is cultivated from Romagna to Campania. It is, however, traditionally the most emblematic grape of Tuscany, with the majority of the most traditional and prestigious wines of our region being made with this variety.
The origins and provenance of Sangiovese are uncertain: the first reliable information dates back only to the 16th century, when Giovan Vettorio Soderini, in his treatise entitled “La coltivazione delle viti” (The Cultivation of Vines) mentions that “Sangiocheto or Sangioveto is a remarkable vine for its regular productivity”.
Even the origin of the name is vague and there are various theories: some claim that it stems from “sangiovannese”, as it originates from San Giovanni Valdarno; others trace it back to the local dialect (from “san giovannina”, an early-ripening grape which buds at the end of June in time for the celebration of St. John the Baptist), and, lastly, there are those who claim that it originates from “sanguegiovese”, or “sangue di Giove” (as it comes from Monte Giove near Santarcangelo di Romagna).
In general, when we talk about Sangiovese, we are talking about a family of grapes defined by a large number of varieties (clones) into which it has adapted over the centuries and in different territories. There are over a hundred clones of this grape-variety.
It is a medium-late-ripening variety, usually harvested from the second half of September to mid-October, and is very good at adapting, with a tendency towards abundant production.
Its leaves are medium-sized, three-lobed or five-lobed, and light green in colour; the grapes are medium-large, ovoid, with a purplish skin verging on black, thickly covered with bloom. It thrives in clayey-calcareous soils rich in stone.
In the right conditions, it produces extremely fine wines of outstanding longevity, but it can also be grown for the production of less demanding everyday wines. Fine sparkling and passito (raisin) wines are also made from it. Wines made with the Sangiovese grape are quite alcoholic, concentrated and suitable for ageing for a long time.
The red wines feature a prevalence of primary scents of red and black fruits such as plum, cherry and blackberry, which may be joined by scents such as vanilla, coffee and tobacco, originating from the wood in which the wine was aged.
The quite marked acidity and tannic texture, together with one of the most refined floral bouquets, form the backbone of this vibrant yet delicate jewel of nature.
This is a grape variety that is not easy to ripen. It requires more time on the vine to reach its full expression and must be protected against damage from possible rainfall during the harvest period. The bunches are tightly formed and compact, which makes the grape demanding in terms of air and exposure to the sun, which must penetrate the bunch deeply.
CANAIOLO
Canaiolo (also known as Canaiolo Nero) is a red grape vine found mainly in central Italy, used in the production of various D.O.C. and D.O.C.G. wines.
In particular, it is used to convey smoothness to Chianti and, in the 18th century, was more widely cultivated than Sangiovese. In addition to Chianti, Canaiolo is also used to make other Central Italian wines, almost all of which are blends. The leaf of this vine is not very large and almost always with five lobes. The plant has a squat shape and round, dark-coloured, opaque berries that are usually sparse, arranged into winged bunches. It is not particularly vigorous or productive, and this clearly limits its use almost exclusively to blending, although when vinified alone it produces distinguished wines that are very drinkable and dynamic.
COLORINO
Colorino is a grape variety native to Tuscany, which owes its name to the intense colour of its skin. It originates from the domestication of wild vines, which makes it similar in some respects to Lambrusco. Colorino was used extensively in Chianti blends in the past, sometimes with partial appassimento (drying) or “governo all’uso Toscano”, to reinforce its colour and texture. It contains large quantities of tannins, has a medium-small leaf and a quite compact, conical shape. The thick skin, covered with bloom, is blue-black in colour and generates warm and deep coloured wines, which require careful dosing if used in blending, and long ageing in the rare cases in which it is vinified alone.
TREBBIANO TOSCANO
The Trebbiano Toscano grape shares its origins with the other grapes of the Trebbiani family, known in Italy since Roman times. Their name stems from “Trebula”, meaning farm (Pliny the Elder describes a “Vinum Trebulanum” which, according to this interpretation, means “village wine”, or “home-made wine”). Distinguishing between the various clones, which bear a name that often indicates their origin or the area of greatest popularity, is not always easy. History takes Trebbiano Toscano to France, for example, following the Pope’s move to Avignon in the 14th century, where it was given the name Ugni Blanc, and where it is now the basis for the production of Cognac and Armagnac. Others date its spread beyond the Alps to the marriage of Catherine de Medici to Henry II de Valois, King of France.
It is a grape variety characterised more by productivity than personality and, partly thanks to the marked acidity conveyed to the wines, it lends itself to drying, offering its fullest expression in Vin Santo del Chianti D.O.C. It was once used in the ancient Chianti blend, conveying greater freshness and drinkability to the wine, a practice that is still allowed by today’s production regulations.
MALVASIA BIANCA LUNGA DEL CHIANTI
The name Malvasia is used for many grape varieties, most of them white, distributed geographically throughout Italy. Despite having different origins, they all share some basic characteristics: they all have a spicy musky and apricot fragrance, albeit with varying degrees of intensity, and rather high residual sugars. These characteristics make the grape varieties of the Malvasia family particularly suitable for the production of sparkling and passito (raisin) wines. Their name, “Malvasia”, originates from a contracted form of the name Monembasia, a Byzantine stronghold perched on the rocks of a promontory to the south of the Peloponnese, where sweet wines were made and then exported throughout Europe by the Venetians, under the name of Monemvasia. The Malvasia Bianca Lunga grape has existed in Tuscany for centuries and was part of the original Chianti recipe completed by Ricasoli.
CHIANTI IDENTIKIT
Chianti D.O.C.G. is now a wine with a lively translucent ruby red colour, which tends towards garnet with age.
It has a dry, savoury, slightly tannic flavour, with an intense and elegant bouquet frequently reminiscent of violet (Viola odorata) and red berry fruits.
Chianti can be drunk as a young still slightly exuberant wine, fresh and pleasant on the palate, with sharp and clean tannins. It has a captivating and slightly carefree drinkability that has few equals in the world. But it can also be waited for, and is well known for its vocation for medium and long ageing, in which its colour, aroma and complexity of flavour mature, its tannins become smooth, and the various elements come together beautifully on the palate.
The refined chiaroscuro of the Tuscan landscape can be found in this wine, one of the first universal symbols of products “made in Italy”.
Chianti D.O.C.G. is made from a compulsory minimum of 70% to 100% Sangiovese.
Grapes from vines suitable for cultivation within the Tuscany region may also be included in production, in a maximum total quantity of 30%. White grapes, used individually or in combination, may not exceed a maximum of 10%.
Lastly, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, used individually or together, may not exceed a maximum of 15%.
Vinification, bottling and ageing must be carried out within the defined production zone. Reference to the subzones “Colli Aretini”, “Colli Fiorentini”, “Colli Senesi”, “Colline Pisane”, “Montalbano”, “Rufina” and “Montespertoli”, in addition to the Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita “Chianti” is allowed exclusively for wine produced, aged, bottled and matured in the relative delimited sub-zones. The wine must also be obtained from grapes harvested and vinified within the respective areas for each of the aforementioned zones, and must comply with any more restrictive parameters.
